ON TOUR: Plymouth

This ON TOUR is a special version of a ship lecture delivered by TNU Editor-in-Chief Malcolm Ginsberg on Saga Spirit of Discovery as she left Falmouth Thursday 4 May on her way to Plymouth and mooring in The Sound the next morning. 

Whatever way you arrive at Plymouth the story starts at the Pilgrim Steps where the colonist embarked on Mayflower for what was to become a 67-day voyage to the renamed New Plymouth, Cape Cod, Massachusetts.

My own connection with Plymouth goes back to 1976 when I visited my old friend from motor racing times Bill Bryce, a New Zealander who had set up a tiny airline called Brymon at Roborough Airport, sited on a hill at the outskirts of the city.

His business partner was another Kiwi called Chris Amon, the number one driver for Ferrari at that time, who never won a race for them.

Bruce McClaren was another one of the New Zealand set living in St Georges Hill, a very smart area near Weybridge South London, now the preserve of Chelsea footballers.

With the introduction of a Newquay – Heathrow air service in January 1977 Bryce took me on to handle the London end.  I’ve been coming to the city ever since.

Now into Plymouth history.

As long ago as the 13th century Plymouth was an important market town. It has had an elected mayor annually since 1439. It is 200 miles from London via now mainly motorway, and dual carriageway from Exeter, a three-day horse-drawn coach journey in days gone by. From the North there is really no alternative but to go via Bristol.  The motorway traffic around the city in the peak summer months can be horrendous.  Choose your time with care.

During the 16th century, locally produced wool was the major export commodity.

Plymouth was the home port for successful maritime traders, among them Sir John Hawkins, who led England's first foray into the Atlantic slave trade, as well as Sir Francis Drake, Mayor of Plymouth in 1581–2.

Crews for the first English failed settlement attempt at Roanoke Colony in North America departed in 1587 under Sir Walter Raleigh's and Drake's leadership; returning bearing maize, tobacco and potatoes. In 1588, according to legend, Drake insisted on completing his game of bowls on the Hoe before engaging the Spanish Armada.

In 1620 the Pilgrim Fathers set sail for the New World from Plymouth, establishing the Plymouth Colony – the second English colony in what is now the United States of America.

During the English Civil War Plymouth sided with the Parliamentarians and was besieged for almost four years by the Royalists. The civil war ended as a Parliamentary win, but monarchy was restored by King Charles II in 1660, who imprisoned many of the Parliamentary heroes on Drake's Island.

In 1690 the first Royal Dockyard opened on the banks of the Tamar, west of Plymouth, the start of the development of a huge naval complex, still today is the largest operational navy base in western Europe, although Portsmouth gets the coverage.  The port played a major role in the Napoleonic Wars and also in both World Wars and suffered major bomb damage in WWII, and was rebuilt in the 1950s.  You can find out more at The Devonport Naval Heritage Site and Visitor Centre.

In 1876 a rail line was completed from the Capital and in 1981 Brymon introduced flights from Plymouth direct to Heathrow.  A local land developer purchased the airport and then the resident airline, and in 2011 closed the operation.  Plymouth City Council, as the Freeholder, was able to stop any development but it’s been derelict ever since with plans to resurrect the aerodrome thwarted.  The City needs air links if it is to really prosper.

Nancy Astor, Viscountess Astor, (1879 –1964) was an American-born British politician and the first woman seated as a Member of Parliament (MP), representing Plymouth from 1919 to 1945 but very controversial with her views on Hitler, anti-Catholic and antisemitism.  She lived at Clivedon, the lavish estate on the River Thames and was the founder of the Clivedon Set.

Mount Batten, overlooking The Sound, dates from this time, named after Sir William Batten.  It has nothing to do with Prince Louis of Battenberg, the very successful former First Sea Lord, who changed his name to Mountbatten in 1917.  Due to anti-German feelings prevalent in Britain during WWI, Prince Louis, his children, and his nephews, renounced their German titles and changed their name to the more English sounding Mountbatten.  His son, also a Louis, Prince Philip’s uncle, was the last Viceroy of India, murdered by the IRA. 

Start your tour of Plymouth at the Mayflower Steps.  Everything of historical (or shopping) interest is within easy walking distance.

Your first visit should be the Mayflower Exhibition where you can take a journey through time with four floors and four centuries to explore.  On the first floor is a model of the Mayflower. It was built on a 1:11 inch scale by apprentices at Devonport Royal Dockyard for the 350th year anniversary of the Mayflower Pilgrims sailing from Plymouth. It features 360 fathoms of rigging, 332 handmade blocks and six handmade sails totalling 64sq ft in area! The real Mayflower took 67 days to cross the Atlantic Ocean. Fit in a visit to the oldest gin factory in the country, just a 10-minute walk away. The area is called The Barbican.

Close by the steps is a bridge across Sutton Harbour, a yacht basin, and the National Marine Aquarium, home for 4,000 sea creatures.  Alternatively walk by The Boathouse and up Lambhay Hill to The Hoe. The massive Royal Citadel is sometimes open, worth a visit, but do check.  Also a short walk is the Ashkenazi Synagogue, the oldest of its type in the English speaking world.  But check on its website for visiting hours.

You must visit The Box – Plymouth's museum, art gallery and cultural centre which is home to thousands of fascinating objects. The interactive history of the port is brilliant. At one point showing the building of the breakwater, the German Heinkel’s then fly over and attack the city.  

The Royal William Yard is now a tourist attraction. It was the major victualling depot of the Royal Navy and an important adjunct of Devonport Dockyard. It’s still famed for victualling, but of a different nature.

If it’s just a stroll you want, try the landmark and trail guide by downloading the free Plymouth Trails app. It lists some 37 ancient monuments including boundary stones, milestones and other markers which add great interest to the local heritage landscape.

Plymouth prides itself on its arts & culture, hosting many exhibitions and events throughout the year in the great range of galleries. The city was home to famous artists including Beryl Cook, whose work was often comical, picturing people whom she encountered in everyday life as well as one of Britain's most controversial post WWII painters Plymouth domiciled Robert Lenkiewicz whose work still exists on the walls of buildings within The Barbican.

In South West Devon, and across the Tamar Bridge in Cornwall, there are numerous places to visit including the Eden Project, 30 miles further on, and Mount Edgecombe House overlooking The Sound.  Historical Bucklands Abbey, about ten miles north of Plymouth, is owned by the National Trust and is strongly connected with Sir Francis Drake and Sir Richard Grenville. Saltram House is another place to visit.  And there is not far away Dartmoor, a National Park, 368sq miles of magnificent countryside.

When it comes to hotels Plymouth is not well endowed with only the Crown Plaza, and its magnificent position overlooking the Hoe, The Copthorne, and a Leonardo, of 4-star status.

Plymouth Argyle soccer team has never played in the old First Division and now Premier League. On Sunday 7 May they became League One winners with a place in The Championship for next season.  It's good business for the city. 

It’s a long way to Plymouth but worth the drive or GWR rail trip.  Cornwall is not far.

www.visitplymouth.co.uk

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