CRUISING: March 2024 - Viking Saturn and Galataport Istanbul - A review

As noted elsewhere in this issue, in late January TNU's Editor-in-Chief and wife joined Viking Saturn at Istanbul's impressive new cruise terminal for a seven-night Aegean cruise finishing at Athens (Piraeus).

The city is quickly becoming the Eastern Mediterranean's version of Barcelona as the a major changeover port (See port review below). It likes to think of itself as the centre of the cruise world.  The impressive Istanbul International is just under 14 hours non-stop from both Los Angeles and Tokyo, and four hours from London.

For a Viking introduction see the February's TNU.  www.travelnewsupdate.co.uk/article/550

Saturn is the last of the series which started with Star in 2015.  Also go to ON TOUR: With Viking into the Aegean.

Viking got it right first time and there are no discernible differences between that ship and Saturn.  Vega follows at the end of this year, slightly larger.

In keeping with tradition as a truly international brand Viking chose New York for the naming of this, its latest ocean cruise ship on 6 June 2023.  Godmother was Ann Ziff, philanthropist and Chairman of the Metropolitan Opera.  For the summer of 2024 Saturn will be based in Europe with a series of 7/14-night cruises offering Athens, Barcelona, Civitavecchia and Istanbul as embarkation ports, plus London Tilbury.

Saturn is too new for Douglas Ward in his latest Cruising and Cruise Ships, part of Insight Guides.  What is remarkable is that all the other eight Viking deep-sea cruise ships score much the same, topping his 4-star ratings, but at 5-star prices, although gratuities are taken care of with free wi-fi, courtesy launderette, wine, beer and soft drinks available at meal times, and included excursions available at every port.  Unless you are a drinker, or want to visit the spa and high class shops it is difficult to spend money on the ship.

This particular cruise was in some ways an extension of Viking’s highly successful river operation with a new docking every day, very intense and quite tiring.  The big difference is that your home for the holiday is big compared with a canal cruiser and offers a great deal more than a river ship.  It is impossible to take in all that is on offer in the week.  This arrangement seems to suit the 90% Americans who made up the assemblage, but a sea day would offer respite.   Mind you staying on board during a port stop is not the end of the world!

Viking is a very elegant looking contemporary ship. No glitz, no children, no casino and no formal dinners.  Smart casual is the dress code. The main focal point is the atrium lobby with the title Living Room. Three decks high it is the gathering point Scandinavian design at its best with plenty of natural light.

The standard and spacious staterooms include an excellent and roomy bathroom with a large shower, but no plug for an electric razor.  Whilst there is a large wardrobe by the bed, storage space is limited and it is something that needs attention.  A coat hook next to the door would also be useful.  Twice daily room servicing and a very comprehensive included room menu is offered.  The 40-inch LCD screens are easy to use providing a fine film selection, international news and recordings of the theatre entertainment and presentations.

No balconies on Saturn.  They are called verandas and very spacious indeed, unlike on some ships where you cannot ‘swing a cat’, not very large at all, looking good on brochures and priced accordingly.  Saturn’s veranda is a joy to sit out on.

The design of the ship makes for a light and airy experience on all levels but particularly deck 7, starting at an infinity pool over the stern, hot tub, alfresco open air dining area. Then comes the self-service World Café followed by the swimming pool with its retractable roof and casual grill plus movie screen.  Next is the stunning Wintergarden, the home for a splendid English 4pm tea and music.  As one moves forward, and to the starboard side, is Mamsen’s serving traditional Norwegian snacks light fayre from early morning until late at night.  Overlooking the bow the two-floor Explorers lounge is for drinks, relaxation and low-key evening entertainment.  

The other key deck is 2 which features the main restaurant, the Torshavn nightclub amidships, and in the bow the Star Theatre for shows and presentations.  A very clever part of the ship design is a pair of cinemas, used separately or as extra accommodation when the main theatre is full.  A fascinating film shown was called “Drain the Oceans”, technology allowing a wreck to be brough to the surface.  In this area is an intimate bar, suitable for a quiet drink with friends before a show, or afterwards.

Viking is proud of its high quality lectures including a resident historian. Cabaret on this cruise was limited to a young enthusiastic British troupe, a duo and some solo artists.  With the ship night stopping at Istanbul and Athens, local groups joined Saturn to give some real regional spontaneity.

Despite initial impression of Scandinavia minimalism, the interior designers have created a beautiful and warm home environment throughout the ship.  If you want to sit away from any crowd there are plenty of nooks and crannies for a quiet read or doze.

The dining is international, of a high standard, well presented and served hot, with the focus on Turkish and Greek food for this trip, with one night the World Café concentrating on Middle East cuisine.

On the deck below the restaurant is Manfredi’s Italian restaurant featuring cuisine with the focus on Tuscany.  Private dining for groups is possible too.  The Chef’s Table is multi-course with food and wine paired, a real speciality dining experience.  This is not a chargeable extra but book early. The Kitchen Table is an intimate venue that can be used for classes.  On this deck is a walk around promenade that is very well sheltered from the wind and is listed as four laps to the mile.  My best was four minutes for one lap!

The large spa area and much used gym includes a saltwater thermal pool with heated couches to relax upon when getting out, a snow room, sauna and steam rooms.

The ship has six lifts (elevators to the Americans), four amidships and two outside the Star Theatre.  This works well and with only nine decks to cover, never much of a wait.

One final comment. 

Viking chose to unveil the senior company on the ship with the final “Daily”.  Much better to know who is looking after you from day one.  You see them about the ship all the time, which is great, but better to know who’s who from the start of the voyage. 

The on-board Viking App serves as a diary, port map (which can be printed out at the never busy guest services desk), is very useful, and also offers a NewsDay page if you are so inclined to know what is going on in the outside world. No sea days for us and therefore a limited lecture programme.

The whole cruise industry is now environmentally conscious.  Sadly time did not permit a theatre briefing on the selective catalytic reduction system to virtually eliminate nitrogen oxides nor the advance recycling and waste systems which Viking is justifiably proud.  Cruisers like to hear about the technical side of things.  Vega at the end of the year will be a great step forward.  

www.viking.com


Galataport Istanbul       

If you have never been to Istanbul’s new cruise port it will really surprise you.

It is a 30-mile one hour drive from the new international airport, mainly of fine multi-lane roads, until you get into the city where you slow down with the inevitable traffic jams.

Finally arriving it is then underground when you enter the actual cruise terminal, a unique experience, and the first in the world.  

It is into a massive parking lot, dropped off at the initial check-in area, followed by cruise registration and immigration and the inevitable tax-free shops.  

You are still below ground and assuming your ship has the prime mooring, Saturn did, it is a short walk up a ramp and into the sunlight and your ship.  With Saturn it is straight on board and a Champagne welcome.  It could not be easier.  What you have missed, and can return to later, is a massive shopping centre on top of the underground cruise terminal.  There are around 250 shops and restaurants.  If your ship is night stopping it is a perfect concourse, and for those returning from excursions with time to spare somewhere to shop. Coming from the shops at ground level the terminal entrance is not that easy to find.

Galataport lies just a little way northeast of the ferry terminal at Karaköy which was the city's original port for passenger ships.   

By the late 20th century that site was no longer suitable to accommodate the growing number of ever larger cruise ships wanting to drop anchor in the city.  A new terminal was sought.  A line of grand buildings, most stripped of a purpose, stretching along the Bosphorus north from Karaköy, was just waiting to be given new life.  Previously run down it was best known as the location of the Istanbul Modern Art Gallery (housed in an old warehouse) and a string of cafés popular with young people.  It stretched for over one kilometre.

The project to develop is a joint venture between Turkey's Doğuş Group and Bilgili Holding who, between them, invested over US$1.8bn in the venture.  With delays caused by the Covid-19 pandemic the first ship in October 2021.

The cruise terminal covers 29,000sq metres of land and has space for three large cruise ships.  

A major feature is specially designed concrete screens hidden under the quay that rise to ensure a barrier.  No one can leave the ships without passing through the Customs and Immigration.  These are retracted when no ships are in port. Customs and Immigration facilities are located underground.  Most of the overground space is taken up by shops, restaurants and offices, a new and thriving very modern commercial metropolis for the city, supported by the local tramway which runs close by.

Just along the waterfront is the Peninsular Hotel, 5-star plus.  Hotel guests now check in at the 1937 Bauhaus-style former port passenger terminal structure with its signature rectilinear clock tower. The building connects via marble-clad corridors to Merkez Han, a pale-grey 1912 art nouveau edifice, formerly the headquarters of Turkey’s maritime operations, and on the other side, Çinili Han, the 1910 passenger terminal with an arts and crafts-inspired facade covered in golden tiles. The complex also includes a new (less graceful) extension with some guest rooms and a ballroom abuzz with receptions and weddings.  

Does Galataport work?  It is certainly different.  Only time will tell. But if you are resident at Istanbul, what fun to take your children shopping, and find as a background one the world’s largest super liners.

See also ON TOUR: Viking into the Aegean.

https://galataport.com/en/cruise-port/about-the-port

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