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Article from TNU AUGUST 2024

CRUISING AUGUST 2024: Two very different ships. Seven Seas Splendor & Waverley


Regent Seven Seas Splendor to Iceland and Greenland

Chris Tarry reports on a fine but somewhat foggy trip 15 July to 25 July.

The pre-departure challenge was to decide quite what clothing might be needed given the real potential for a wide range of weather, which, other than rough seas and extremely high winds, did in fact materialise. The issue was more in respect of the clothes for day time when off the ship on excursions as the dress code after 18:00 for cruises of this length is always “smart casual” which almost by definition is open to reasonably wide interpretation.

We flew Gatwick (LGW) – Keflavik International Airport (KEF) in a Max 8 in Icelandair’s Saga Premium, Business Class.  Good crew and food and a most interesting gin menu.  90% of the passengers were connecting.  

Let’s be generous and say that I would only use the airport again if there was no alternative!  Inbound included a long walk and the return transit can only be described as troublesome.

We made our own arrangements to stay in the Hilton Parliament in the centre of Reykjavik and arranged for a car transfer with a delightful and informative driver as it turned out. Iceland is certainly not a cheap country, but we were impressed by the quality of the hotel and as we had opted for a half-board package, as they had a deal when we booked, with an excellent and varied “eat as much as you like” top quality menu. It is a country where tipping is not expected.

Our check-in time for the ship was noon so after a leisurely breakfast and catching up on some day-time television we took a taxi for the ten-minute or so ride to the cruise port. Getting out of the taxi there was a veritable army of who appeared to be students who were very happy to assist and take your luggage. Check in was actually on the ship so we waited in a reasonably fast-moving queue along the quay and up the gangway (onto deck 5) – we then descended a deck to the Compass Rose dining room where the check in took place – for those who wanted it there were at least three opportunities for a glass of champagne from stepping onboard.

As it was a sunny and warm day we ate at the Pool Grill buffet.  Plenty of waiters around to help. Next stop the salon for my wife to book some appointments and then to the cabin, meeting the attendants and butler and then unpacking. The ship was not sailing until 19:00 and other than watching the safety video (which we had done as part of the online check-in process) all we had to do was register at our muster station which was on deck 5. During this time we learned that the itinerary had been changed due to sea ice at three of the planned destinations in Greenland and where only Paamuit remained and Nuuk was added. It meant more sea days, which for us is not really a problem but more of that later.

The departure from Iceland was very straightforward and on time and we passed both the P&O Aurora and MSC Poesia which were also in port. It was a warm and sunny evening. As we tend to eat later than most on the ship we headed to the dining room at 20:30 after a cocktail in the Observation Lounge which we returned to later in the evening to watch the sunset (which it didn’t while we were there until after midnight) and for whales breaking through the surface (which they did).

Regent includes a significant number of tours within the fare you pay – what you need to do is book them as soon as they become available which in our case was a year before departure, but it was something we forgot to do until earlier this year so the range on offer was a bit restricted.

Day 1 was spent in Isafjordur, a tiny inlet in the north west of Iceland) – after breakfast we went on a tour of the local area which was interesting and gave insights particularly into the importance of fishing and the associated dangers.

With the revised itinerary the next two days were spent at sea with an arrival planned for 08:00 in Paamuit (Greenland), on Friday 19 July. As we travelled closer the fog descended and the temperature dropped, the ship slowed and the fog horn went off, it seemed every couple of minutes. At around 08:00 the Captain came on the address system to explain that the fog, but particularly the sea ice, meant that we could not visit Paamuit and so we would head on to Nuuk, capital of Greenland; as the day progressed the sun emerged and by lunch time there was no sign whatsoever of the fog, in glorious sunlight and a flat blue sea. What was visible was the coast of Greenland and many large pieces of ice which indeed could be classified as icebergs.

In fact this weather continued for the next couple of days where on the 20th we spent most of the day in shirt sleeves sitting on the deck or our balcony as we cruised up and down Nuuk Fjord but where we were unable to visit the glacier at the head of the fjord as there was a wall of sea ice.

On the 21st we took a walking trip around Nuuk – again interesting to get a perspective and on the importance of tourism and how the opening of the new international airport will provide a boost from November. To put it in perspective, Nuuk is the administrative centre for Greenland and has a population of 20,000. The guide assured me that there were enough hotel rooms to accommodate more tourists. There seemed to be a lot of building work going on mainly improving the housing stock.

We left Nuuk at 14:00 and about half an hour later went into fog, which pretty much remained with us from Sunday afternoon until Wednesday morning (with only a few breaks) when we arrived in Grundarfjordour, the most westerly port in Iceland, a couple of hours later than planned due to adverse currents on the way down from Nuuk which meant the cancellation of the morning tours.  We were lucky as ours, which was a tour of the Snaefellsnes national park went ahead. After a well organised tender operation we were ashore and on the coach and although the weather was generally bad we saw the key sights with a very informative guide – these included lava fields and beaches, colonies of sea birds and the location of the filming of “Journey to the Centre of the Earth”. After that it was back on the ship and a need to pack as it was the last evening.

As I reported after our trip from Miami to Lisbon last year, the Seven Seas Splendor https://www.travelnewsupdate.co.uk/article/194 is an extremely comfortable ship with hotel and restaurant staff who want to make sure that you enjoy yourself on board. The fare also includes, drinks (other than premium alcohol), wi-fi, laundry (so that you can come home with almost everything clean as well as not having to take as much) and a wide range of excursions.  Meals at the speciality restaurants are also included and here as I reported before these are at or close to Michelin standard – we had dinner at these on five occasions and lunch on one. The main buffet (where you eat at tables with fresh tablecloths – they are changed each time a party leaves the table) operates as a speciality Italian restaurant in the evening and we ate there twice.

Although there was a good speaker on board this time (Dr Julie Ackroyd), the RSSC ship itineraries are best described as “port intensive” and as a result, despite the best efforts of the entertainments team there are only limited options on unexpected sea days!

We've booked some more trips into 2025 on Seven Seas Splendor.  W
www.rssc.com/ships/seven_seas_splendor

THE PADDLE STEAMER WAVERLY 

Once again the historic paddle steamer Waverley will at the end of August venture south completing her programme on Friday 4 October, with a Radio Caroline 60th anniversary cruise from Tower Pier.

This is a wonderful opportunity to experience a unique ship, complete with on board dining and a remarkable view of the paddles and engine room.  It’s not just nostalgia, but a splendid day out.

Waverley has been awarded the prestigious status of National Flagship of the Year by National Historic Ships UK.

The award recognises the breadth and geographic coverage of Waverley’s sailings in addition to the extended sailing programme planned for 2024 with a record beating visit to seventy ports and piers.

A misty October 2, 1946 saw the last paddle steamer to be built for Clyde services launched by Lady Matthews, wife of LNER Chairman and named Waverley.

By 1973 her days as part of the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry fleet were finished and she was acquired for a nominal sum by the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society, still the owner.

Preserving such a old lady and keeping up with current regulations has been difficult and expensive.  But worth it.  

Try Waverley when she visits a port near you.

•    Glasgow & Clyde Coast – until Sunday 25 August
•    South West including Plymouth – Thursday 29 August – Monday 2 September
•    South Coast & Isle of Wight – Monday 2 September – Wednesday 25 September
•    London & Thames Estuary – Friday 27 September – Sunday 13 October
•    Final Sailings of the 2024 season (Glasgow & Clyde Coast) – Saturday 19 & Sunday 20 October

Click here for a review www.travelnewsupdate.co.uk/article/400

www.waverleyexcursions.co.uk



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