ON TOUR: A trip around the Western Med

Malcolm Ginsberg reports on a 16-day cruise named 'Treasures of the Western Mediterranean'.  Average passenger age on the full ship was around 75, some very mobile, others less so, but all looked after very well.

The problem with any cruise from a UK port into the Mediterranean is the Bay of Biscay any time of the year.

Late September is considered less risky!

Traversing it can take up to two days once out of the English Channel, but mid-September on Saga Spirit of Adventure it caused no weather problems.  It was exceptionally smooth both ways.


Gibraltar  

Three days at sea from Dover and arrival at The Rock, the well organised terminal only a short walk to the town.  The prices of the Duty Free were half of that at most airport terminals!

We took advantage of the Saga included tour for a 2½-hour trip around the British Overseas Territory in a minibus.  Anything larger is a ‘no go’ through the maze of narrow streets and tunnels.  

The experienced driver was very confident as we negotiated our way to Europa Point from where you can see Africa and somewhere across the water Ceuta, the Spanish enclave in Morrocco where we would be the following week (See below).  

What is very apparent is how vibrant Gibraltar is, and the amount of building and reconstruction work that has taken place since our last visit.  We will have to come back by air in the new year.  

Up the actual Rock to see the Barbary Apes (monkeys).

Now open is the Kingsway Tunnel under Gibraltar Airport’s runway giving easy motor traffic access to the terminal and the border crossing to Spain.  No waiting for an aircraft to land (or take off).  Pedestrians can still use the runway crossing when open.  No motorised traffic is allowed.  

The 2025 ex-UK flight programme is likely to be as this year with British Airways from Heathrow and easyJet out of Bristol, Gatwick and Manchester airports.  

Asked about negotiations between the EU and the UK on the post-Brexit relationship Kevin Bossino, CEO of Gibraltar Tourist Board, said that they are ongoing.  “A round has just taken place in Brussels. Authorities are discussing an agreement that will guarantee the free circulation of people and goods despite the frontier. But as of today, negotiations remain stalled and a solution to the Spain – Gibraltar border management continues to be elusive”.

www.visitgibraltar.gi


Barcelona (Spain)

Spain’s relationship with the UK now allows ships to traverse directly from Gibraltar to Barcelona.

The 1992 Olympics marked the renaissance for one of the major Mediterranean ports with new cruise port facilities and hotels.  It has never looked back and at the present time is hosting the America’s Cup, which Britain has not won since it was instigated in 1851. The 37th yacht race will take place in Barcelona as a first-to-seven-wins series from 12 October.  

We took the ship’s included tour, and vacated the coach on the return as it passed the World Trade Centre.  Barcelona provided buses between the ship and this prominent point by the Eurostars Grand Marina hotel.  From here it is an easy walk past the maritime museum to La Rambla, the city’s main pedestrianised artery, and back for the return bus shuttle to the ship.  

At the city’s heart is Plaça de Catalunya, an immense square dotted with fountains and statues, which bridges the old city and the 19th century.

The highlight of the tour is the still yet to be completed controversial Sagrada Familia, a catholic cathedral designed by the Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí (1852–1926) and set, so it is said, to be completed by 2027.  Work started on it in 1882.  No mistype of numbers here!  

Gaudi left his mark all over Barcelona, other works include Park Güell, Casa Milá, and Casa Batlló.  We also passed the Art Nouveau San Pau Hospital by another outstanding architect, Lluís Domènech i Montaner.  

Our coach ride took us up to the Montjuïc Hill stopping at the National Museum of Cataluña and passing the Olympic Stadium where Sally Gunnell and Linford Christie won Gold Medals.

www.barcelona.cat


Monte Carlo (Monaco)

What was supposed to be a ship’s tender experience changed to a mooring at the cruise terminal, an easy walk to the open top bus stop and taxis.  Numerous very expensive private yachts packed the harbour and Spirit of Adventure stood out as the largest vessel!  

Monte Carlo means the Grand Prix, first run in 1929.  Ayrton Senna won six times and Graham Hill five.  Stirling Moss took Lotus first GP win in 1962.  Jochem Rindt (later that year to sadly become the only posthumous World Motor Racing Champion) won a sensational race in 1970 overtaking Jack Brabham as he crashed on the final (Gasworks) hairpin.  You can drive yourself around the circuit in a hire car (plenty do) or take an expensive ride in an open Lambo.

Monaco is a ‘Billionaire’s Playground’, which is blessed with fine beaches, exotic gardens, and luxury boutiques.  Monaco exudes glitz and glamour, from the elite high rises overlooking the marina to the medieval quarter set atop Monaco Rock. The latter is crowned by the Place du Palais, where the Changing of the Guard ceremony plays out every day at 11:00.  The Palace is open for tours and also the late Prince Rainier’s 100 strong car collection, including the original Mini, Rolls-Royce, Humber and F1.

In the afternoon we took the included tour that gave us the opportunity to soak up the scenery of the French Riviera with a panoramic drive stopping in the seaside village of Eze, and Menton, the 'Pearl of Côte d’Azur', the last French town before reaching the Italian border.

www.visitmonaco.com/en


Toulon (France)

We never made the main base of the French Navy, the offshore wind too strong to make an approach, and alternative ports were not available.  An extra day at sea was quickly filled with activities.  

Following the collapse of Vichy France, Toulon gained notoriety on 27 November 1942 when the French fleet was scuttled to prevent Nazi Germany taking it over. Seventy-seven ships were lost.

https://provence-alpes-cotedazur.com


Ajaccio (Corsica)

We sailed into Ajaccio on a Saturday morning, closely followed by Cunard’s Queen Anne, which towered over us.  No fancy terminal here, just a short walk into the shoreside central area and a busy weekend market.  A walking tour of the town was included.

We found the (€10) open top bus tour which took us past the railway station, currently being re-built.  Not on for this trip but for train enthusiasts a must.  The line from Ajaccio to Bastia is nearly 100 miles long and the network has 32 tunnels and 51 bridges and viaducts.

A mountainous island Corsica has been French since 1768, but nevertheless has a distinctly Italian vibe. The legacy of Napoleon Bonaparte can be felt throughout Ajaccio. As the birthplace of the French Emperor, Napoleon’s memory has been preserved in a museum in his childhood home, the grand cathedral where he was christened and in the square named after him.

www.ajaccio-tourisme.com/en


Mahón (Menorca)

Menorca is the second largest of the many Balearic Islands with a green rolling landscape, little traffic, and no potholes.  Smooth progress.  Majorca is the biggest of the Spanish tourism-focussed islands, with Ibiza third, and a certain reputation.  

For cruise ships it is a transit port and again no huge terminal, and with a lack of tides easy for quayside access.

Mahón, the capital, lies in a sheltered natural harbour. The rocky shoreline is dotted with elegant Georgian-style architecture, a throwback to its period of 18th century British occupation. Nelson was supposed to be entertained by Lady Hamilton here.  The museum in Fort Marlborough offers a look back at this era. Other attractions close by include 19th century Mola Fortress, built to prevent the return of the British, and Far de Favàritx lighthouse.  

The old city of Mahón is a patchwork of architecture, (imagine British colonial buildings and 18th century Spanish townhouses) with easy access via a very pretty public garden and 150 steps, or a free elevator.  It is just a few steps from security control.

Our morning coach ride took us to the little resort village of Fornells, with time for a cup of coffee and a guided tour.  Es Grau describes itself as a small, sleepy fishing village that offers families an old-fashioned seaside holiday with an authentic insight into Menorcan life and cuisine.

www.spain.info/en/info/mao-centro-tourist-office


Ceuta (Spain)

Best described as an interesting port and never previously visited by me, nor by the majority of Saga holidaymakers, Ceuta was supposed to be our last stop (see below).  It is in Africa, an autonomous city of Spain, an isthmus with a Moroccan border.  A parallel can be drawn with Gibraltar, 12 miles across the Strait of that name. It has been Spanish since 1668, and today is the target of refugees trying to make it to Europe.  

Ceuta is not on the British tourist map.  It has no airport, although a helipad is provided in the harbour.  Most visitors arrive by sea from the major southern Spanish ports plus the Balearic Islands.  Tangier Airport is nearly two hours away by road and is served from the UK by Air Arabia, Royal Air Maroc and Ryanair.

We found it a quiet and prosperous looking place, the cruise ship pier in the centre of Ceuta city, and  dominated by what is termed the Royal Walls, with what is claimed to be the only navigable moat in the world, described as ‘sea walk’.  It was from Ceuta that Franco in 1936 launched his Fascist takeover of democratic Spain.

A supposed quiet day out became exciting.  See Saga Cruise Ship in Dramatic Sea rescue in this month's TNU.

www.andalucia.com/ceuta/tourist-office


A Coruña (Spain)

The port of La Coruña will be familiar to TNU readers.  I visited just three weeks ago from RCCL Anthem of the Seas. www.travelnewsupdate.co.uk/article/826

With the loss of Toulon and three sea days between Ceuta and Portsmouth our genial Croation Captain Franko Papić raised our speed to 18 knots and added the Galician port to the itinerary for a full day’s visit.

Once again with a docking point in the very centre of the city La Coruña proved to be an excellent choice for the extra stop.  Fronting the port area is the appropriately named Avenida de la Marina with tall 19th century houses, their façades almost entirely taken up by miradors, glazed balconies which enable the residents to admire the view while sheltered from the wind.

For €1.30 and a ten-minute ride, the Aquarium Finisterrae claims to be the largest interactive venture of its type in Europe with over 600 species from the Atlantic. It is ideal for kids. There are three open pools for seals, octopuses and other local species.

From here it is a 15-minute walk to the Tower of Hercules, a Roman lighthouse dating from the 2nd century, in the time of Trajan. Designed by the Portuguese architect Cayo Sergio Lupo, it was refurbished in 1788 by order of King Charles IV of Spain. It has a square ground plan and the light it casts is visible at sea from a distance of 32 miles, though not at the time of our visit due to the smog out at sea caused by the fires raging through Portugal. The tower is divided into three sections, each successively narrower, up to the lantern. There are a total of 242 steps leading to the top of the lighthouse.

Saga provided for an included tour balancing out the cancelled Toulon visit.  

www.turismo.gal/que-visitar/cidades/a-coruna?langId=en_US

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