CRUISING: RIVER CRUISING - Another take on getting about

Linda and Malcolm Ginsberg have been river cruising for at least 30 years.  In truth it is another take on using the water as a floating hotel.  No new room every night, always the same hospitality team, and restaurant staff who get to know your needs.

Europe alone has a vast number of waterways, only a few we have actually visited.  The Dutch canals are entirely different to the Douro from Porto, the Danube has always been the M1 of Europe, the Rhine is very interesting the way it takes in industrial cities (Cologne), and fantastic gorges.

For the most part the ships are all much the same, up to 200 passengers, with smaller cabins than their sea-going sisters, but always offering a quality product according to price.  

For us, outstanding trips have included the Scenic inaugural with fellow Neasdenite Twiggy and husband Leigh Lawson as celebratory guests, St Petersburg to Moscow on Viking (sadly no longer available!), the Severn from Gloucester living on the remarkable Edward Elgar, AMA’s “Wide-Bodied” Magna on the Danube, and Richard The Lionheart’s residence Château Gaillard on the Seine at Les Andelys. Emerald was our host, the trip starting at Paris, and turning around at Honfleur, also a deep sea port, and the Druro, a winery at every port.

SAGA is also into river ships but their problem is ours too.  The whole concept of river cruising is the visits to interesting locations within easy reach of mooring spots.  Often it is a morning tour, back to your ship for lunch, and then a further outing in the afternoon.  However the older you are the more tiring it gets.  And that is why we have given up river cruises and handed over to Andy Mossack of ‘Trip Reporter’, younger by some years.  

Here is his first report:

VIVA TWO A Danube Panorama Cruise

An all-inclusive journey of discovery

The humble apricot is UNESCO protected. Who knew? Well, I say the humble apricot, but to be clear, it is the Wachau apricot that is the headliner in this case. Every sweet, juicy, plump and pretty piece of it.  I know this because I’m gazing at thousands of them right now as we slowly sail by on our VIVA 2 Danube Panorama Cruise.  A sea of colour lining the slopes of the famed Wachau: an Austrian valley already a world-class UNESCO wine growing region, but now proudly producing some of the most succulent apricots on the planet.

This is my second VIVA cruise following on from my earlier VIVA 1 Rhine cruise last July. VIVA TWO is also a newbuild ship but slightly bigger than VIVA 1, with 192 passenger capacity and an additional restaurant – Moments – offering Mediterranean à la carte dining in addition to the Bistro and main Riverside restaurants.

Other than that, all the signature VIVA Cruises essentials are onboard here: fully all-inclusive breakfast, lunch and dinner and all-day drinks (including the entire bar menu), flexible mealtimes with no set seating, fully stocked mini bar refreshed every day, Rituals toiletries, welcome in-cabin bottle of bubbly, one afternoon high tea each cruise, free reusable water bottles and fast and free wi-fi. There is also a small gym and spa (with a list of therapies and massages) plus a splash pool up on the enormous sun deck.

This seven-night VIVA TWO Danube Panorama cruise takes in the Danube’s two leading cities Budapest and Vienna, but also gives us time ashore at a few other stops; perhaps less well known but still worthy baroque-rich destinations including Bratislava, Melk, Esztergom and Linz.

VIVA Cruises may be a relatively new name to river cruising, having only launched properly post Covid, but they are part of acclaimed Swiss shipping group Scylla, the company behind luxury travel operator Tauck, so they know a thing or two about top tier service delivery. And here is the thing about river cruising, it is a vastly different experience from big ship ocean grazing. You are always never far from land and more often than not, you are in the middle of a city each time you stop. And most importantly, within hours of embarking the entire crew will probably know your name and the individual little things that float your own particular boat so to speak.

I had joined VIVA TWO as she was waiting patiently on the Danube at Passau, known as the ‘three rivers city’ sitting as it does, astride the union of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers. It is right on the Austrian border, (there is a cycle path here all the way to Vienna) and no doubt the reason for its strategic Veste Oberhaus 13th century hilltop fortress, and a remarkable gothic and baroque old town. I would have stayed to have a look around, but I really wanted to get on board, relax and enjoy VIVA TWO’s hospitality.

A simple passport show is all I needed to come aboard, collect my cabin card and be escorted to my cabin. I am on the top Diamond deck, a contemporary air-conditioned luxury cabin with a Juliette balcony and sliding French door windows.  Plenty of wardrobe space, mini bar and Nespresso, large flat screen TV, Queen double bed and luxury linens. The electric power shower was a welcome bonus, and as always, the Rituals toiletries were gratefully received and used.

By 17:00 we were off, silently slipping away on electric power, so smooth I hadn’t even realised we were moving. Probably because I was distracted, busy working my way through a rather lovely gin and tonic. Speaking of which, the lounge and its upper-level bar is the beating heart of VIVA TWO. People meeting up, chilling out or enjoying a drink or three, listening to pianist singer Daniele tinkering the ivories. It is a beautiful spot with panoramic windows, tables and comfy sofas.

It is also where Cruise Director Alex does his daily briefings. VIVA has a policy of silent cabin announcements, leaving your personal space a haven of peace and quiet. I really like that.

I quickly get the bar team in a competitive mood challenging them to see who can make the best whisky sour cocktail over the course of the cruise. Nothing like a bit of competition to get the service team on your side when it is an all-inclusive format.

As I have mentioned, the main dining is in the Riverside restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner, where you just turn up and sit where you like. On my first evening I make friends over football with my waiter Puji, a gentleman from Indonesia who for some reason supports Manchester United. I will be making a concerted effort to change his allegiance over the course of the cruise.  The other two restaurants – Moments and Bistro – simply need to be booked in advance to confirm a table.

My dinners at Riverside are a triumph. A five-course silver service menu (there is also a vegetarian menu) offering plenty of choices whatever your preferences.

The Bistro right at the back of VIVA TWO is open for lunch and dinner. This is a much more intimate venue with just 30 seats, an open kitchen and beautiful views out to the river. Lunch is an easy affair with soup and a choice of a stacked burger, Caesar salad or seafood. While dinners offer three starters, two soups and steak, lamb, halibut steak or tiger prawns for main courses. You can also elect to share platters of starters and mains between two people.
Moments is the new all Mediterranean restaurant and located on the lower deck almost at water level which offers a unique view of the Danube it has to be said.  Pizzas, pasta and salads for lunch, while dinner kicks off with an impressive self-serve antipasti salad bar and Minestrone soup followed by a choice of three cooked-to-order mains from the open kitchen: lamb chops, tagliatta-style rib eye steak, or a fish dish. A buffet of Italian desserts awaits those of you still able to eat.

Our first two stops are Melk (Austria) and Esztergom (Hungary).

With its magnificent 11th century baroque abbey perched on a promontory 130 feet above the Danube, Melk is one of the highlights of Lower Austria. The abbey buildings, the church and the library are all well worth exploring. The pedestrianised main street is lined with historic buildings and local shops.

Although you would not know it from the city you see today, Esztergom was once a royal city with immense wealth and influence perhaps bigger than Budapest. The huge basilica and royal castle and much of the old town baroque and classicist buildings offer clues to its storied past. The bridge across the Danube is significant because you can simply walk into Slovakia, which is exactly what I did! It was a beautifully sunny day and the view of VIVA TWO from the bridge was spectacular.

Linz – Austria
Although at first sight Linz might seem a little drab, dig a bit deeper and you will find a well-preserved baroque old town, particularly around the Hauptplatz main square. On the other side of the river the Arts Electronics Centre is a must for anyone interested in the latest tech.

Vienna – Austria
The home of the once mighty Hapsburgs for over 600 years Vienna still retains a regal poise about it and is an absolute delight. Great composers, great coffee and cake, spectacular architecture and vast palaces are the hallmarks that define Vienna. Cherish every minute you are here and make the most of it. But don’t miss the Schönbrunn Palace and gardens, Hofburg Palace, Sisi Museum and Spanish Riding School and St Stephen’s Cathedral.

Bratislava – Slovakia
Slovakia’s capital has a wonderful cobbled old town with windy lanes and alleyways which was just gearing up for its Christmas Markets when I visited. Now something of a sleeping beauty Bratislava was once called Pressburg, and was the capital of Hungary for nearly 250 years until Budapest and Vienna’s stars began to shine during the 19th century.

VIVA TWO docked right in the centre of Budapest between the Chain and Liberty bridges on the Pest side. The tram system is easy to navigate and it is best to buy a day pass. Budapest is one of my favourite European cities with plenty of history and nightlife. Highlights for first timers are the Castle district, Gellért thermal spa, St Stephens Basilica, the monumental 19th century buildings along Andrássy Avenue and exploring the Great Market Hall.

VIVA TWO itineraries start from just £650, which includes the signature VIVA all-inclusive product: full board, high-quality alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, minibar, wi-fi and all tips and gratuities.

www.tripreporter.co.uk

www.viva-cruises.com

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